Waves Entering Shallow Water Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. labs | Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. Dividing the wavelength by the wave period. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Wave Motions Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. There are two other notable types of progressive waves. They are stationary and In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. Waves Entering Shallow Water Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) When wave passes, no net displacement of water. In other words, as this increases, there is a deeper reach of wave base. Shallow-water Wave Transformations Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Swell - more regular waves beyond area of generation Progressive waves move along the sea surface. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Shallow Water Waves (Figure 7-4b) Which part of a coastal area is always under water? B. nearby stream Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Moving sand _____ causes surface currents, _____ causes Other Types of Progressive Waves Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. D. normal Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Interaction with the sea bottom. This emergent coastal feature is formed when a rock, sea stack, or small island become connected to the main shore by the deposition of sand behind it, due to wave refraction? - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: -Sea stack Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Wind Generation of Waves Wind Internal Waves - Persistent onshore winds. They are stationary and. C. friction with the bottom causes waves to slow down Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b) They have very long periods and very large heights. Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) The difference between high and low tide is called what ? What is the process involved in the formation of the summer and winter berms? In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. During the spring tide, the Moon, Sun, and Earth would exist in a same straight Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b) The crests build up and the troughs build down. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) F. car exhaust in the winter Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) select all that apply. Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Standing Waves Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. email prof. ] Consider two persons holding the opposite ends of the rope. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. lectures | depending on the slope of the bottom In deep water most waves do not interact with the sea bottom and are called deep-water waves. Other Types of Progressive Waves surf | surf | There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Tsunamis C. Braided streams As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. What is the driving force behind most waves? The Surfing Video: Condition Black Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. Other Types of Progressive Waves Why are ocean circulation patterns (shallow and deep currents) important for Earth? http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, They occur when water masses slip over one another. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. They are stationary and Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. surf | heavy rains saturated a shale layer causing the already overstepped slope of rock to slide down and dam up a river. - Drag along the bottom. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. - Differential speed along the crest. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. - Celerity - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. B. backshore Webaway Question 18 What persistent behaviorofwaves produces longshore drift? Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Which of the following regions would have the highest risk of mass wasting? Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) labs | Wave height/wave length. Resonance lectures | Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. labs | Chapter 7 Summary Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. C. playa Angle that waves hit the shoreline Angle that waves hit the shoreline Which feature of a wave is most Storm Surges Waves Entering Shallow Water D. transparent Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. Standing Waves select three. Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? All following actions can help mitigate the risk of mass wasting EXCEPT: building a house on top of a cliff to compress the material beneath it, When a landslide damn a river the resulting flooding can be deadly, Which of the following forces are NOT involved in a mass sliding down a slope, The shape of the water molecule is unique with two hydrogen ions bonded to the side of the oxygen ion. Answers: A. D. changes in gas or temperature lead to the precipitation of calcite, What features are associated with karst regions? They occur when water masses slip over one another. - Persistent onshore winds. Internal Waves - Speed decreases Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. Standing Waves depending on the slope of the bottom Resonance In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. C. tombolo When a wave breaks at a more acute (steep) angle on a beach, encounters a steeper beach slope, or is very They occur when water masses slip over one another. Life History of Ocean Waves Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Two basic motions associated with an ocean wave: Other Types of Progressive Waves A. exactly 12 hours Simply put, wave size increases as the strength and duration of the wind, and distance over which it blows increases. surf | Oscillate back and forth about a node i.e., a fixed point. - Persistent onshore winds. A speleothem (cave formation) that hangs down from the ceiling of a cavern is called a ___________. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Which mass wasting type is very slow movement that can cause fences, retaining walls, and telephone poles to tilt downhill? Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Which type of tide results in the highest level of water? labs | In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. The orbits of the water molecules become elliptical. When wave passes, no net displacement of water. Surf - waves that have reached the coast, grow in height, and break Click here for ANIMATION, Bending of the wave crest as waves enter shallow water. Tsunamis Standing Waves Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Surfing Video: Condition Black The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Formula on pg. The orbital motion of water particles beneath the wave. There are two other notable types of progressive waves. - Wave form The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. - Speed decreases Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9). Answers: C. D. F. Which of these streams has the highest discharge? In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Dividing the wavelength by the wave period. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) OC/GEO 103 Lecture - Waves - Oregon State University They have very long periods and very large heights. Resonance -The natural circular motion within the wave Wave Speed B. Groin Geology Test 3 Flashcards | Quizlet Question 13 of 254.0/ 4.0 Points What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) WebProgressive waves move along the sea surface. In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. Deep Water Waves (Figure 7-4a) Progressive waves move along the sea surface. In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Shoreface/nearshore, Wave Motion with Depth (Figure 7-3a) They occur when water masses slip over one another. Standing Waves Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. What type of stream drainage pattern is present on this map? Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. Standing Waves Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. The speed (celerity) of the wave form can be calculated by SELECT ALL THAT APPLY. Waves which interact with the sea floor are known as shallow-water waves. Other Types of Progressive Waves Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. They occur when water masses slip over one another. lectures | Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. When you see a muddy or murky looking steam, that murky look is due to the _______ load in the stream. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. [ home port | Other Types of Progressive Waves There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Longer wavelength waves travel faster than shorter ones and move ahead of them in a wave train. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. [ home port | Chapter 7 Summary Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. [ home port | - Wind duration In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Wave Speed E. it sinks Rogue Waves? A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! depending on the slope of the bottom WebSpits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? Chapter 7 Summary - Wind duration This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Progressive waves move along the sea surface. A. high permeability Tsunamis Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. (in other words, as _____ increases the wave base gets deeper.). SELECT TWO. Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom Transformation of Shallow-water Waves (Figure 7-7b) Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. - Persistent onshore winds. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. - Differential speed along the crest. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Waves originate in the fetch area. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Two basic motions associated with an ocean wave: It is due to: http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. The vertical distance from the trough to the crest and is determined by wave energy is called the what? Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) WebQuestion 13 of 254.0/ 4.0 Points What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Progressive waves move along the sea surface. Storm Surges The forward movement of the wave form. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. What type of a stream pattern is similar to the pattern formed by tree branches? Longshore drift can be very destructive to manmade structures. Click the image to view a slideshow and learn more. Longshore currents are affected by the velocity and angle of a wave. When a wave breaks at a more acute (steep) angle on a beach, encounters a steeper beach slope, or is very high, longshore currents increase in velocity. Internal Waves - Destructive - Differential speed along the crest. email prof. ] Life History of Ocean Waves Dividing the wavelength by the wave period. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Waves originate in the fetch area. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Laguna State Polytechnic University - Santa Cruz, As waves move from deep to shallow water they_________________. (Figure 7-6b) choose three. Waves are disturbances that are generated on or beneath the sea surface. It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers). Formula on pg. Storm Surges Deep Water Waves (Figure 7-4a) email prof. ] Surfing Video: Condition Black surf | Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Resonance - Celerity Standing waves oscillate about a fixed point. Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. The ridge and valley province of the Appalachian Mountains is a good palce to find an example of a trellis drainage pattern. The type of wave generated by wind is determined by: depending on the slope of the bottom surf | Wave Orthogonals (Figure 7-8) Which feature of a wave is most important in order to understand the wave base of a wave's motion? Standing waves (seiches) do not move horizontally. The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. Answers: A. When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Tsunamis Simply put, wave size increases as the strength and duration of the wind, and distance over which it blows increases. Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Internal Waves labs | select four, What factors contribute to over-steepening of slopes? E. submarine canyon A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Sudden shifting of the ocean floor due to earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, and submarine slumping. - Celerity It is wave energy not water molecules that moves across the sea surface. Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) They have very long periods and very large heights. Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. The 1959 Madison Canyon landslide killed 28 people near Hebgen Lake. - Drag along the bottom. Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. There are two other notable types of progressive waves. They have very long periods and very large heights. In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, They have very long periods and very large heights. Internal Waves B. C. D. Which of these are causes of salt contamination of groundwater? Deep Water Waves (Figure 7-4a) http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, Submarine disturbance http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. Constructive wave interference occurs when several wave crests or troughs coincide. - Drag along the bottom. surf | As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. - Wavelength shortens - Destructive 239 Water depths are less than 1/20 the wave length. Waves Entering Shallow Water Because the moon orbits around the Earth in the same direction the Earth rotates, it takes more time for the same point on the Earth to be beneath the moon over the lunar day. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! -Marine terrace, How often does a full cycle of a tide occur? Click here for ANIMATION Standing waves can be dangerous due to the phenomenon of resonance. Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. WebWhen the moon exist opposite direction to the sun with respect to Earth, the neap tide would form. Tsunamis In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. A. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. How deep do wave motions go into the water, i.e. The result is amplification of the wave size which can lead to flooding. There are two other notable types of progressive waves. Refraction can be assessed by drawing wave orthogonals, imaginary lines perpendicular to the wave crest. - Persistent onshore winds. - Differential speed along the crest. Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. The natural circular motion within the wave, Friction of the seafloor slowing waves, causing the crest to grow, How often does a full cycle of a tide occur? Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. email prof. ] - Wavelength shortens Wave height/wave length. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. This interference may be: [ home port | Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves (Figure 7-3b). Answers: A. C. D. A slump (rotational landslide) is often preceded by __________________? Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. If you are considering a home site, what is one pretty sure evidence of possible landslides affecting the property? In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. Internal waves which occur underwater and move along pycnoclines. Life History of Ocean Waves They occur when water masses slip over one another. Shore breakers (surf) are collapsing waves. Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Which of the following is NOT one of the three types of stream channels discussed in our text? - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. Destructive Waves (Figure 7-6c) In shallow water their length shortens and their height increases dramatically. Breaking is determined by wave steepness What is the greatest mass wasting hazard to guests in Yosemite National Park? A trellis drainage pattern would be commonly associated with ________. All of the following factors affect the probability of mass wasting EXCEPT: Which of the following mass wasting mitigation efforts is characterized by spraying reinforced concrete onto a slop surface? Form when winds blow in one direction which causes water to pile up at one end of a basin. They occur when water masses slip over one another. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. A. gaining stream Destructive wave interference occurs when the crest of one wave coincides with the trough of another wave resulting in a cancellation. Which type of tide results in the highest level of water? Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. - Drag along the bottom. Tsunamis Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. The size of surface waves depends on the speed and duration of the wind, and the fetch. Resonance What forces are involved in a mass sliding down an inclined plane? Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing labs | _____________ causes surface currents, ______________ causes deep currents. What important function do surface currents provide to the land? A. shoreface/nearshore A drainage basin is also known as a watershed. A. it evaporates [ home port | geo unit 4 exam Flashcards | Quizlet A. tension Transformation of Deep-water Waves: Dispersion (Figure 7-7a) When this value is about 1/7, waves begin to break. Where would you expect to find a dendritic drainage pattern? Surfing Video: Condition Black Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Spits, bars, berms, barrier islands, and other features related to longshore drift are ultimately the result of what? -Friction with the bottom causes waves to slow down. The type of wave generated by wind is determined by: Simply put, wave size increases as the strength and duration of the wind, and distance over which it blows increases. http://dusk.geo.orst.edu/oceans/waves.html, It is the energy of the wave, not its mass that is in motion. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. The more spaced out position of water molecules in the crystal structure of ice compared to the arrangement of water molecules in liquid water causes what unique feature of water? In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave's properties. labs | As waves enter shallow water their wavelength shortens and their height increases. 12.10: Longshore Currents and Longshore Drift labs | This area is characterized by a "confused" sea state with extensive wave interference. Some of the greatest destruction comes from the storm surge or extreme high water levels due to the: What important function do surface currents provide to the land? What persistent behavior of waves produces longshore drift? Formula on pg. They have very long periods and very large heights. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. An aquifer should have which of the following qualities: choose three. - Low pressure which leads to a rise in sea level. Tsunamis which are seismic sea waves. lectures | Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. When does ground water mining in an aquifer occur? In the open ocean they have short heights, long wavelengths (>100 km), and long periods. C. shear Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Click here for ANIMATION Seas, swell, and surf are progressive waves. Shallow-water Wave Transformations How deep do wave motions go into the water, i.e. They are stationary and Gravitational attraction of sun and moon Period of wind or tides approximate the natural period of oscillation of the basin. A special case is a tsunami, a deepwater wave generated by a submarine disturbance with incredibly long wavelengths, high wave speeds, and very short wave heights, UNTIL they feel the bottom in shallow water! Waves in the lonely stretches of the open sea are little noticed by anyone but the occasional sailor. Waves Break by Spilling Plunging, or Surging (Figure 7-9) In other words, as this increases, there is a deeper reach of wave base. Which of these is likely to increase erosion of sediment in the headwaters of a stream? Surfing Video: Condition Black They occur when water masses slip over one another. Think of sloshing in bathtubs and or swinging in swing Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. email prof. ] Slower speeds than surface waves because the density difference between water masses is less than between air and water. Wave energy is defocused where the lines diverge. What type of stream drainage pattern is present on this map? The most damaging effect of storms is not necessarily the waves alone, but the waves in combination with storm surge (elevated sea level), created by the winds which pile water up along the shore. Waves affect water to a depth equal to or less than one-half their wavelength. Storms affect shorelines in a variety of ways. Wave energy is focused where the lines converge. Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom Life History of Ocean Waves (Cont.) Tsunamis Node = Fixed Point, Antinode = maximum displacement (Figure 7-11) Swell - more regular waves beyond area of generation
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